I returned from the NCECA Conference in Pittsburgh, Pa., with no rolled-up posters in the ubiquitous black tube, no piles of glossy post cards, no catalogs or samples from vendors, and no T-shirts. This year’s conference for me was one of networking, meeting people, talking to collectors, and lining up possible workshops.

The vendor floor was certainly the place to see and be seen. I am amazed at the vast array of products we have available in our field—from magazines and publications, raw materials and supplies, and an endless supply of tools and equipment. Since then, I have been thinking of what I have accumulated over many years of involvement in the ceramic field. As a manufacturer, I am sure I may have a bit more specialized equipment and tools, but much of what I have is the same as we all have.

We need to take an active role in maintaining our equipment and helping it last. Most pottery equipment is very well-built and designed, and can last a lifetime. But without an active maintenance schedule, our equipment can age prematurely. Here is a list of some things that merit attention on a periodic basis.

Pottery Wheels
If the bearings have lubrication points, Zerk fittings or gear reducers, make sure that these parts are lubricated, oil changed periodically. Check belts for wear and adjust accordingly. Tighten all set screws that secure pulleys to set screws and shafts. Keep foot pedals in adjustment and clean. Check cords for wear and tear. As most wheels have DC motors and electronic speed controls, have a spare set of brushes and electronic parts as replacements. It is often helpful to blow out the accumulation of carbon dust from the area where the brushes contact the motor commutator.

Electric Kilns
Check the elements for continuity on a periodic basis. Have a spare set of elements and know how to replace them when necessary. Vacuum the kiln periodically to remove dust and accumulated ceramic debris. Keep the shelves clean and flip the bottom ones periodically. Have a spare set of switches if your kiln uses them. If your kiln uses an electronic controller, a spare board is good to have, as they will malfunction at some point. Connecting wires from the controls to the elements are also useful to have on hand. A small amount of refractory cement to mortar a broken brick part back into place is helpful. Keep your kiln furniture organized and remove any wadding (if you use wadding) that sticks to the ends when you unload each firing. Most of the ends of the furniture will become rounded over time. A sanding disk adhered to a bat is a simple solution to keep the ends as flat as possible. Cycle the main breaker periodically and always have a spare breaker. They will fail at some point and knowing how to remove and replace it from the panel is a great antidote.

Gas Kilns
If you smell gas, check all connections with a soapy liquid. Keep the area around the kiln spotless. Vacuum the interior of the kiln each firing. Check the burners and the pilots for frayed electrical connections and flame sensors that can be out of adjustment. Vacuum the brick dish out of the peep-holes and make sure that the brick plugs fit well. If you have a fiber kiln, check for any shrinkage gaps and stuff them with extra fiber. Take care of your kiln shelves; if your kiln is outside, make sure your shelves are dry and out of the weather. If you have a hinged door, make sure the pivot points are lubricated and the door seals along the entire perimeter. Check to make sure there are no obstructions in the flue or chimney. If your kiln is outside, the burners can become filled with outdoor detritus. Over time, the orifices can become clogged and the inside of the burners can become rusted. This rust can often migrate with the flame into the kiln and deposit on your ware. Clean the burners and their parts at least once a year. Anything electronic should be checked from time to time for frayed wires or loose connections, It is quite useful to have backup spare parts such as thermocouples, solenoid valves, spark igniters, wiring harness, etc.

Slab Rollers
Check cables for tension, and keep any canvas as clean as possible. If you have a motorized machine, check the chain for proper tension and keep it lubricated. Keep moist clay away from the surface of the rollers.

Extruders
If the extruder barrel is not stainless steel, make sure to coat the surface with a light coat of WD-40 or similar lubricant/rust-preventive. Keep all dies clean, and store the lever out of the way so that it does not connect with your head or eye!

Hydraulic Press
Always check the fluid level in the reservoir. Tighten the bolts that secure the cylinder to the frame. Keep the tapped holes or T-slots in the platens free of debris and clean of dried clay or dried out lubricant. Keep the platens rust-free and smooth by cleaning them with a scrub pad and WD-40 or similar product. Make sure your hydraulic lines are in good shape and all connections tight and drip free. Keep the air regulators at zero pressure when not in use. Once a year, use a degreaser solution on the hydraulic unit to remove all surface dirt and residue. Lubricate each corner slide guide after every press session. Always make sure that the cap on the hydraulic reservoir is free of obstruction and in place. Tighten the nuts that secure the top platen periodically and make sure that both platens are parallel with each other.

Compressors
Check the oil level daily and top off when necessary. Change the oil per the manufacturer’s recommendation. Drain the condensate/water daily. If you have an automatic condensate drain, make sure that it is working correctly. Check belt tension and look or signs of wear.

Most equipment in the studio can benefit from periodic lubrication, cleaning and inspection. If you are prescient and keep a watch on your equipment, you will have equipment that will last a long time for you. A little attention is all that matters!